How to Preserve and Protect Your Log Home or Cabin With Stain. General Info - Part One

The stain on your logs is the most important line ofto certain factors like the sun. The very first log
defense against the three main enemies of your logs.home I ever worked on had an existing stain on it
Those are the sun, (U.V. damage), moisture, andthat was linseed oil based. The sides of the home
fungi. After proper preparation of the wood/logs, wethat got the most U.V. exposure were quite black.
believe it is one of the most important decision's thatThis wasn't the typical sun damage concentrated on
is made for their longevity and beauty; you shouldthe upper curvature of the logs, but pretty much
use the best stains available, and not cut corners oncovered the whole log. I found out after doing some
quality. There are many stain manufacturers outresearch about the fact that linseed oil has a
there. They all claim to be the best and do anphoto-chemical reaction with ultraviolet rays that
excellent job of protecting your logs from theturns the wood black. This is on top of the fact that
element's, etc. But from our experience, most oflinseed oil is one of those natural oils that many
them do not. One of the most common area's oforganisms like to feed on. Like I mentioned before,
shortcoming we see is the U.V. protection providedits like candy-coating your house. I think that linseed
by stains. We see many log homes where the sun ismay be fine to have in some stains if the amount is
actually sun burning the wood, and turning it blackvery minimal, but I still see no reason to have it in a
right through the stain. Many times this happens instain at all. There are better ingredients to add as
one to three year's after application of the stain. Thisfillers to the stain.
is a prime example of the stain that was applied justThe application method of the stain is the next most
not having enough U.V. inhibitors. It doesn't do anyimportant step. First we mask off doors, windows,
good to have a stain that provides good moistureetc. Anything that we don't want stain on. We
protection, but allows the sun to damage andprotect concrete, bushes, and so on, with canvas
destroy the wood cells underneath the stain!!tarps. Then, we use airless sprayers to get a large
We use what we feel are the best stain's availablevolume of stain on an area of the logs. The stain is
today. They are formulated to prevent the damagingthen back brushed by hand to work it into to pores
effects of water, fungi, and U.V. radiation. They are aof the wood and even it out. This step is then
V.O.C. Compliant blend of natural and synthetic resinsrepeated a second time, with the end result being
which penetrate wood pores to block out water andthat the wood has absorbed as much of the stain as
provide long-lasting protection. A unique feature isit can, and the stain is applied evenly. This method
that these stains contain nutrient-free resins, insteadgives the most uniform look, with the greatest
of high levels of fungicide to prevent mold andamount of protection for your logs. The result is
mildew growth. There are many stains produced thatvalue for you, the homeowner. Your log home will
have natural oils and minerals as key ingredients, thatlast the longest period of time in between re-staining,
are actually food for mold and mildew spores. Stainingwith NO damage to the wood cells of your logs.
your home with some of these products is like givingThis is part one of at least a three part series on
an invitation to all kinds of little critter's to make astains for your log home or cabin. In the next parts
meal of your log's! One example of this is Linseed oilof the series, we will address the different types of
based stain. I'm amazed at the number of stains thatstains, and pigmented stains versus clear-coat stains,
still exist out there that are linseed oil based.which stains are best and why, etc. I hope you'll join
Obviously these stain manufacturers don't have ame for those articles as well.
clue about what their stains do and how they react