| Knowing when to stain or seal your log home | | | | several things to happen. The logs will "weather" and |
| depends on many variables. Knowing these variables | | | | start to turn gray. The weathering process naturally |
| depends on whether it is a new construction, or an | | | | removes the mill glaze, gives the wood time to |
| older log home. With newly constructed log homes, | | | | "season" just like firewood seasons and dries out, |
| staining as soon as possible after the home is finished | | | | and in turn opens up the pores of the wood. A |
| seems logical. Some banks even require it before | | | | good indicator of how long to wait is to let the logs |
| they will issue the final payout. However, the | | | | just begin to discolor. Waiting too long causes it's |
| following points should be considered. | | | | own set of problems. When they get to this point, it |
| With few exceptions, most log home kits when | | | | is the ideal time to begin the sealing process. |
| delivered to the jobsite are still wet or "green" | | | | Now as with the new construction process, power |
| meaning they have been recently cut down and | | | | washing can be used to properly prep the logs for |
| milled or hand peeled. While on the jobsite they may | | | | staining. A chlorine and TSP solution can be mixed |
| or may not be covered to protect them from the | | | | depending on the depth of cleaning that is needed. |
| weather. Add to this, often times several logs are laid | | | | This mixture will remove any mill glaze that mat be |
| around the jobsite to make for easy access. They | | | | left, dirt or other pollutants and mildew spores that |
| can and are walked on, left unprotected and | | | | you may or may not can see. You can be certain |
| susceptible to construction debris (dirt and mortar | | | | that logs that have been in these surroundings WILL |
| splatter, paint spills etc...) and ordinary weathering. | | | | have mildew! |
| Moreover, new logs have what is known in the | | | | Now the logs will need to dry to at least an 18% |
| industry as "mill glaze," a thin film of sap that is drawn | | | | moisture content or preferably lower, 12 to 15% is |
| to the surface of the wood by the heat from fast | | | | ideal. Remember, the dryer the logs, the more stain |
| turning milling knifes. As it cools, it hardens and | | | | will be absorbed thereby providing maximum |
| actually forms a film creating a barrier preventing any | | | | protection. There is only one way to know if the logs |
| stain from penetrating. | | | | are dry or not. Testing with a moisture meter. This |
| This scenario is typical of the average construction | | | | handheld device has two probes that are inserted |
| jobsite. So when the logs are erected, they are wet | | | | into the wood that registers the water content. |
| from recently being cut down, dirty from lying around | | | | Without it there is no way to be sure whether the |
| the jobsite and have a film from the mill glaze. Not | | | | logs are dry or not. With moisture being one of the |
| what a new stain should be applied to. | | | | major reasons stains fail prematurely, the moisture |
| Sometimes the General Contractor, if reputable, will | | | | meter is a very important tool. |
| require the applicator (usually a painter) to power | | | | Now that the logs have been cleaned properly, the |
| wash the logs before apply the stain. Power washing | | | | mill glaze removed and allowed to dry to an |
| will remove the dirt, or at least most of it, but does | | | | acceptable moisture level, a quality sealer can be |
| little to remove the mill glaze unless a chemical | | | | applied. If either of these steps are ignored, you can |
| additive is used. After the logs have been washed, | | | | not expect any stain or sealer to last any length of |
| they are allowed to air dry a few days or until | | | | time. Too often we are called to a home that is only |
| someone blindly decides "they are probably dry," and | | | | a couple of years old, but the finish is failing, black |
| then a stain is usually sprayed on leaving at best a | | | | spots from mildew under the stain are showing |
| thin coat. This could be construed as hiding the | | | | through and the overall appearance just looks spent. |
| problem. | | | | This is unnecessary as well as unacceptable. |
| The stain is on and the home is looking pretty good. | | | | Moreover it is unprofessional. |
| The problem is, it will not hold up for much more than | | | | As beautiful as a log home can be, it may take a little |
| a year. The logs are still green (wet), the mill glaze | | | | longer and it will cost more, but the results will be a |
| is most likely still intact and if you look closely, you | | | | superior finish that will far out last any quick attempt |
| will probably find a footprint or two. | | | | at cutting corners. We consider it well worth the |
| The solution; Wait | | | | extra effort. |
| If possible, it would be much better and cheaper to | | | | If you have a log home restoration question, give us |
| wait a few months. By waiting, you are allowing | | | | a call, we love to help! |